Myanmar - Yangon, the city of the golden pagoda

Our last stop in Myanmar was the city of Yangon. This is perhaps where Myanmar got its nickname of 'the golden land' as its main attraction is the huge, golden Shwedegon Pagoda. Yangon is the largest city in Myanmar, but lost its status as capital to Naypidaw in 2005.

The golden pagoda

We had around one and half days to explore the city which from what we had heard, was plenty of time to take in the main sites.

We arrived at 3am on the 6 hour overnight bus from Mawlamyine, into the vast Aung Mingalar bus station located out of the city to the north. Half asleep, we got off the bus in this huge maze of a bus station and Chris went off in search of the public bus (number 43) to town. He found it outside of the station on the corner of Aung Mingalar Street at the Aung Mingalar Bus Stop. Having it written down in Burmese definitely helped us to find it quickly, and by 4am we were sitting on the bus heading towards the main central stop at Sula Pagoda.

Early morning face!

The bus route was direct, easy and cheap at 500 Kyat each including our bags (300 Kyat normally). Plus at 4am we breezed into town in under an hour (Yangon is known for its bad traffic!). We then had just a short walk to our hostel Wayfarer's Rest... hostels have improved a lot since the last time we did backpacking!

Our hostel

After checking in we headed to bed in our cosy curtained off teak bunks for a few hours kip so we were fresh faced and ready to hit the heat and last few sights in Myanmar.

With some tasty corn fritters from the street to keep us going we walked up from Maha Bandula towards the Kandawgyi Lake. Passing through various shopping streets and via Bogyoke Market.

Fried goodies

We then headed down Yaw Min Gyi Street to an art gallery (really an AC stop) to Dean Bakery, where we first tasted and then chose some delicious baked treats for lunch. Their rose yogurt and Earl Grey breads are scrumptious!

Yum yum

Taking them with us we finally reached the lake with its long board walk over the lake and sat eating our carefully selected lunch overlooking the traditional styled Karaweik Palace restaurant boat thing. 

Is it a ship, is it a boat, no its a concrete restaurant...

Mid afternoon stroll

We headed on at around 3pm to see our final and most impressive glistening golden pagoda in Myanmar - the Shwedegon Paya.

Shwedegon Paya

Walking up the undercover walkway you wouldn't know that the complex inside is quite sizable and makes for some great people watching as it was peak pilgrimage season.

At the top we had our bags checked, paid our foreigner entrance fee of 8,000 Kyat per person and with a map in hand we wandered our way around the courtyard, stopping to see all the various different Buddha images (Jade Buddha, Recovered from the British Buddha, Reclining Buddha etc.) housed in buildings that surround the grand golden central stupa.

The 105m golden stupa is the largest in Myanmar and by far the most impressive. Our visit was timed with sunset so we were able to experience the area in different light.

Wow... just wow

It towers over the city glistening bright, not just from the gold paint and gold leaf that covers the stupa, but also its top spire which contains a 72 carat diamond. Not to mention the small (over a meter wide) weather vein which is decorated in gold rings and gem stoned jewellery that has been donated by pilgrims.

A few donations which are now at the top

We also had the privilege of joining in the lighting of 11,000 tea lights that had been put out all the way round its golden base... quite a magical end to our time in the golden land.

Candles... and lots of them

Only another 9,999 to go

We found a great little noodle place recommended by our hostel not far from the famous 19th Street in China town. China town is the centre for street food and there is a great buzz around the area, but it was packed with tourists eating a much more expensive version of the BBQ that we had enjoyed on the river front of Mawlamyine.

BBQ on 19th

Our hotel provided a basic breakfast of tea and toast with marmalade (for the first time after nothing but sweet strawberry or mixed fruit jam on offer it was heaven!!!) which set us up for the day. 

Yangon is good for a wander and so with an example walking tour in hand, we set off to explore. First stop the Bogyoke Market, which was closed the day before.

The (rather touristy) market

The market is a large two story building containing 100s of stalls filled mainly with tourist trades...bracelets, wood carvings, jade etc. After buying an elephant (as you do), we tried to catch the circular train, which is a great way to see the wider city.  Sadly the times didn't fit so we headed towards the river and seek out the famous Strand Hotel.

Chilling out in the Bandoola Gardens

The walk passed various impressive colonial government buildings, the Sule Pagoda, Maha Bandoola Garden and lots of street markets. 

Want a book?

... what about a quick bite to eat?

This is a trend in Yangon - there are markets on the streets everywhere selling everything from broken mobile phones to books. It was a great insight into Yangon of today. It will certainly be interesting to see how this city changes in the coming years. 

... or maybe a broken mobile phone?

We ended up at the Stand Hotel - an impressive colonial building on the river. Julia took a nap whilst Chris read the paper - whilst cooling off in the AC, before heading back and to our final evening in Myanmar.

A grand lobby (with AC!!!)

Our flight was early in the morning - a quick taxi ride from the hostel for 6,000 kyat - so we just chilled out, had a beer and readied ourselves for our next adventure in Cambodia.