Hiroshima is really known for one thing - the A-bomb. However, we were pleasantly surprised that there was much more to the city and we could have easily spent a extra few days there. But as we were on a tight schedule (as with most places) we had only one full day in the city and then one day at the nearby island of Miyajima. We have split this blog into two - one for the bomb and one for the city of today, as Hiroshima is much more than just the bomb.
Hiroshima is a sizeable coastal city lying on an estuary of the Ota river, giving it a very distinct layout with many water ways and bridges. However, Hiroshima would have been a normal city, and probably not on the tourist trail if it hadn't been for one moment in 1945, that would change the world forever - the A-bomb.
On the morning of 6th August 1945, as the Pacific War was coming to a end, three American bombers flew over the city with their sights set on the distinct T shaped Aioi Bridge in the middle of Hiroshima - and dropped Little Boy.
Given the city had not been bombed during the war and only three bombers were seen in the sky at that time the sirens weren't set off and people watched as parachutes (which were actually scientific instruments to measure the impact of the bomb) were dropped from one of the planes. They probably didn't even see the bomb dropped from a B29 super-fortress bomber known as Enola Gay. Little Boy, as the bomb was known, was only about 8 ft in length. So small and on its own - insignificant - but it never touched the ground. At about 600m the bomb exploded and the world saw for the first time the power of a nuclear bomb.
Of the 50kg of nuclear material held in the bomb, only 1kg went nuclear, which makes you seriously consider the actual potential power of the bomb. In a split second a huge fireball was created (the red ball in the image) and a huge drop in pressure - the blast wave - which caused unimaginable damage. The temperatures rose to over 4000 C, resulting in anything within one mile of the bomb to be vaporised instantly. The destruction was total.
The museum should be given a fair amount of time, even if it is just to negotiate the crowds. It will be especially worth your time when it re-opens in full. Only one section was open when we visited, but still took up a good hour or so. We would recommend taking a free (yes free!!!) private tour instead of the audio guide (300Yen) as it gives you the opportunity to ask questions and stops you from turning into audio guide zombie.
As we went round, we kept on seeing people listening in until one chap, Kieran, actually asked if he could join us.
The museum is mainly focused on the human impact, however, it does touch on the technology and the bomb itself. It takes you straight into the day of the bomb and the explosion, explaining the moments just before during and after the explosion. You will see horrific photos of people burned alive, with their skin hanging off and their various possessions - it isn't for the faint-hearted.
The magnitude and force of the bomb is shown with images of the destroyed city, heat blast shadows on stone, and various bent and dislodged metal. There are even heat blast shadows left from where people sat or lay. This helped them understand where the hypo-centre was.
The museum finishes with information about the effect of radioactivity on the human body and the long term impacts such as cancer, including a sad story of a small girl who ended up with acute leukemia. She had been told of a Japanese legend, that by making one thousand paper cranes she would be granted a wish - a wish to live. She made 644 paper cranes before she died, and her legacy continues as the paper crane has become a beautiful symbol of peace.
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| The A-Bomb dome |
Hiroshima is a sizeable coastal city lying on an estuary of the Ota river, giving it a very distinct layout with many water ways and bridges. However, Hiroshima would have been a normal city, and probably not on the tourist trail if it hadn't been for one moment in 1945, that would change the world forever - the A-bomb.
On the morning of 6th August 1945, as the Pacific War was coming to a end, three American bombers flew over the city with their sights set on the distinct T shaped Aioi Bridge in the middle of Hiroshima - and dropped Little Boy.
Given the city had not been bombed during the war and only three bombers were seen in the sky at that time the sirens weren't set off and people watched as parachutes (which were actually scientific instruments to measure the impact of the bomb) were dropped from one of the planes. They probably didn't even see the bomb dropped from a B29 super-fortress bomber known as Enola Gay. Little Boy, as the bomb was known, was only about 8 ft in length. So small and on its own - insignificant - but it never touched the ground. At about 600m the bomb exploded and the world saw for the first time the power of a nuclear bomb.
Of the 50kg of nuclear material held in the bomb, only 1kg went nuclear, which makes you seriously consider the actual potential power of the bomb. In a split second a huge fireball was created (the red ball in the image) and a huge drop in pressure - the blast wave - which caused unimaginable damage. The temperatures rose to over 4000 C, resulting in anything within one mile of the bomb to be vaporised instantly. The destruction was total.
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| A map of Hiroshima showing the point of explosion. |
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| Total devastation |
Apart from the obvious destruction of buildings, people within one mile of the bomb were vaporised. Those outside of this area were not so lucky. The intense heat melted their skin, so it was dripping off their arms and legs. The burns were unimaginable. In their desperation to get away from the heat, they jumped into the rivers, but they just simply drowned. Shortly after the explosion the mushroom cloud mixed with water vapour in the air, causing it to rain. But this was not normal rain - this was black radioactive rain. The people were so thirsty they drank the water, without knowing the effects it would cause. If that wasn't enough, everyone in the area had been exposed to horrifically dangerous levels of radiation. It was literally hell on earth.
Over 140,000 people died soon after as a result of the bomb. Nearly half the population of the city and the remainder would have to live with the fear of their exposure for the rest of their lives.
Three days later the whole thing would be repeated, but this time with an even more powerful bomb - the H-bomb - in Nagasaki.
The Americans had left a statement to the world.
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| Words cannot describe |
Over 140,000 people died soon after as a result of the bomb. Nearly half the population of the city and the remainder would have to live with the fear of their exposure for the rest of their lives.
Three days later the whole thing would be repeated, but this time with an even more powerful bomb - the H-bomb - in Nagasaki.
The Americans had left a statement to the world.
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| A peace memorial to children |
The Japanese did horrific things in the war, and there is no excuse for that, such as at the death railway and in China at the massacre of Nanjing. But was this bomb really necessary apart from a statement to the world of the power of the USA?
The Americans had decided not to bomb several strategic cities. Had they always intended to drop the bomb, and show to the world they were the true superpower? Or did this bomb really stop the war, stop a land invasion and ultimately save many more lives?
It is strange that the Americans had left the cities of Hiroshima, Nagasaki and Kyoto free of bombing. When they knew they had the technology, had they selected these cities as test sites for the bomb - it looks that way. In some ways we are lucky Kyoto was not hit, from a historical point of view. There are many theories and articles out there if you want to read more. All we can say is that the events in Hiroshima and Nagasaki should never be repeated again, and if they are, god help us all.
The city commemorates the day in a very respectful way. It is impossible to miss the A-bomb dome as you travel through the city on iconic trams. This building, which is UNESCO listed, has been left as a permanent reminder of that day, and sits just 160m from the hypo-centre (where the bomb went off). The building has been left as it was found on that day (apart from a bit of restoration) and sits as a poignant and very visual reminder.
The Americans had decided not to bomb several strategic cities. Had they always intended to drop the bomb, and show to the world they were the true superpower? Or did this bomb really stop the war, stop a land invasion and ultimately save many more lives?
It is strange that the Americans had left the cities of Hiroshima, Nagasaki and Kyoto free of bombing. When they knew they had the technology, had they selected these cities as test sites for the bomb - it looks that way. In some ways we are lucky Kyoto was not hit, from a historical point of view. There are many theories and articles out there if you want to read more. All we can say is that the events in Hiroshima and Nagasaki should never be repeated again, and if they are, god help us all.
The city commemorates the day in a very respectful way. It is impossible to miss the A-bomb dome as you travel through the city on iconic trams. This building, which is UNESCO listed, has been left as a permanent reminder of that day, and sits just 160m from the hypo-centre (where the bomb went off). The building has been left as it was found on that day (apart from a bit of restoration) and sits as a poignant and very visual reminder.
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| The epicenter and our (free) guide |
The A-bomb dome sits to one side of the peace park. The park was, before the bomb, a bustling commercial and residential area. Due to its proximity to the explosion it was completely wiped out, so in 1954 it was decided to set up a park focusing on the bomb and world peace.
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| The A-bomb Dome |
The park which is an island in the middle of two rivers, is in the centre of the town, and easily accessible from everywhere. There are number of memorials including the A-bomb dome, Memorial Cenotaph and Children's Peace Monument. There is also an excellent museum to the south, which is under refurbishment when we went.
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| The peace park |
The museum should be given a fair amount of time, even if it is just to negotiate the crowds. It will be especially worth your time when it re-opens in full. Only one section was open when we visited, but still took up a good hour or so. We would recommend taking a free (yes free!!!) private tour instead of the audio guide (300Yen) as it gives you the opportunity to ask questions and stops you from turning into audio guide zombie.
As we went round, we kept on seeing people listening in until one chap, Kieran, actually asked if he could join us.
The museum is mainly focused on the human impact, however, it does touch on the technology and the bomb itself. It takes you straight into the day of the bomb and the explosion, explaining the moments just before during and after the explosion. You will see horrific photos of people burned alive, with their skin hanging off and their various possessions - it isn't for the faint-hearted.
The magnitude and force of the bomb is shown with images of the destroyed city, heat blast shadows on stone, and various bent and dislodged metal. There are even heat blast shadows left from where people sat or lay. This helped them understand where the hypo-centre was.
The museum finishes with information about the effect of radioactivity on the human body and the long term impacts such as cancer, including a sad story of a small girl who ended up with acute leukemia. She had been told of a Japanese legend, that by making one thousand paper cranes she would be granted a wish - a wish to live. She made 644 paper cranes before she died, and her legacy continues as the paper crane has become a beautiful symbol of peace.
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| Paper cranes |
After our tour, we were met at the exit by another guide, who was to take us around the park - great! It was super to have a guide for the park as well, as there is little explanation of the various memorials and we were able to local the hypo-centre - a small granite plaque on a side street.
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| Peace monument |
Our a-bomb day was finished off by visiting the hall of remembrance located underground in the park. This space is for quiet contemplation and shows you images of those who died.
What happened in Hiroshima was a horrific and indeed huge point in history. It has impacted us ever since. It was good that recently the President of the US - Barack Obama - visited the site - the first president ever to do so.
We hear everyday about nuclear threats, but there are only really two places which know what it is really like. Do visit and pay your respects and see how lucky we are that we have not seen his again. But there is a lot more to Hiroshima than just the A-bomb, and that is what we will cover in our next post.
What happened in Hiroshima was a horrific and indeed huge point in history. It has impacted us ever since. It was good that recently the President of the US - Barack Obama - visited the site - the first president ever to do so.
We hear everyday about nuclear threats, but there are only really two places which know what it is really like. Do visit and pay your respects and see how lucky we are that we have not seen his again. But there is a lot more to Hiroshima than just the A-bomb, and that is what we will cover in our next post.
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