Everyone is aware of the small Indonesian island of Bali, made even more famous by the book, come movie, Eat, Pray, Love. So as we were planning to head north from Australia, we felt we had to add this to our list of destinations.
Having read much about the 'Aussie' holiday resorts of Seminyak and Kuta, who are drawn to the island for the beaches, nightlife and most importantly the surf, we decided to steer clear of these and go straight to the arty town of Ubud nestled among the rice terraces to experience the real essence of Bali and it's culture. We then planned to head over to the Gili Islands, just off the neighbouring island of Lombok to get some beach time.
We were not planning to be in Bali for long, but there was a little confusion to our VISA. We knew we could get a free VISA exemption for 30 days, but there was sketchy information if this VISA could be used to leave from Lombok... in 7 days we would find out!
So we proceeded to get a taxi from the airport (300 IDR), and headed into the depths of our first experience of Asia.
As soon as we headed in land, the luscious tropical green forests and stunning landscapes made us instantly fall in love with the island, and as we arrived into Ubud with the sun setting we were excited for what we would encounter.
Ubud itself is relatively touristy, but with its arty culture and great range of shops and restaurants we actually didn't mind this at all. We found some great places to eat, including Warung Babi Guling aka suckling pig, and Wayan's Restaurant, with its candle lit garden setting and delicious food which we enjoyed so much we went back to twice!
We stayed just south of the main area of Ubud in the Agung Villa Resort, as we wanted to be out of the hustle of the main streets and in the surroundings of what we imagined Bali to be - circled by rice fields.
The resort was reasonably priced, with two pools overlooking the fields, and an ok breakfast, and we were welcomed on arrival with the great news that we had been upgraded to a Garden View Villa! We had our own wooden villa, with outdoor bathroom and chill out area below - a nice change from the airbed!
Ubud itself gave us plenty of options for things to do in the day and with a free shuttle bus from our hotel into the centre, we made the most of it! We spent a morning at the Monkey Forest, which after all the warnings not to take ANYTHING with us, wasn't as bad as we'd been led to believe. We only witnessed one thieving monkey who jumped from a rooftop onto an unsuspecting girl and took her sun cream!
The evening performance at the palace which runs every day was quite a spectacle, though get there early for a seat as sitting on the floor for 2 hrs gives you quite a numb bum! It tells classical stories though colourful dance, amazing facial expressions and bold eye movements. Oh and there is a cool monkey puppet in there too, but we couldn't work out how this linked into the story!
We also did the Campuhan ridge walk which had been mentioned and recommended on a few blog sites. This wasn't quite as good as we'd expected, and in the heat we quickly turned back after the best bit which it right at the start - a path which overlooks the valleys either side.
We then headed off to catch the sunset from a restaurant/cafe that had been recommended again, but this time the route was much more picturesque. We met local workers in the rice fields heading out as the temperature was dropping, and found a great little spot right on the edge overlooking the rice fields for a delicious mango smoothie and beer with the sun setting over the rice fields - it was beautiful.
On our second day we headed out to see the wider island. Our plan was quite big for one day, which put many drivers off and said it could only be done in two days. But we didn't give up. After asking quite a few travel agencies, we found one who would do it, with no questions, for a third less than everyone else was quoting for half the trip!
We woke early to find the driver was unavailable, but Putu, the enthusiastic owner of the agency we had met the day before, was there in his own car waiting to take us out! So knowing the 'boss' was our tour guide we sat back and headed off to our list of stops for the day...
Tellangang Rice Terraces
As we had a full day ahead of us we started early, which meant we got to these rice terraces ,just 15 minutes north of Ubud, before the crowds. The workers were just heading out for the day and with the orange glow of the early morning sun, it was great to explore up through the terraces, walking right along the ridges and getting up close with them.
The Pura Tirta Empul Temple
This spiritual temple, is one of the most significant for the Balinese people, and Putu who attended this temple regularly came in with us. With a holy spring spouting water through numerous fountains into a pool, we joined the locals in their ritual. You move through the pool to each fountain and dunking our heads under its fresh, cool flowing water one by one (avoiding the three that are just for taking the water from to wash down the dead).
Putu then invited us to pray with him in the temple, explaining to us all the offerings and the use of flower petals as they pray to each of the gods. This was a really unique and special experience and was probably one of the highlights of our day.
Mount Batur
We drove right into the north of the island to get a quick view of Mount Batur and its spectacular crater lake. This was a nice stop, but quite a long way out the way so we had to keep moving on to make sure we could fit in all our stops!
Lumak Coffee and a Cup of Tea
Bali is also famous for its Lumak coffee. Coffee beans that are eaten and pooped out by a Lumak, and then dried and roasted to make a uniquely tasting coffee! We stopped at a great spot set in beautiful garden surroundings which offered free tea and coffee tastings (except the Lumak coffee which we paid for) and explained the process in making the coffee too. It had only been open a few months so it was quiet, but once this place gets it's name out I'm sure it'll be on the tour trail!
Jilwatwh Rice Terraces
With a UNESCO status these rice terraces are the largest on Bali and my are they stunning! We had driven for a good 2 hours through a heavy thunder storm and as we got closer we were concerned that we wouldn't get THE view of this spectacular sight. The Gods seemed to be on our side as the weather passed on just as we parked up, and we had a good half an hour taking in this magnificent sight. If you go to Bali you have to visit this place, it is totally worth the journey.
Tanah Lot Temple
It was the sunset that we had come to see at this coastal temple on a rocky outcrop in the sea. There are a few temples along the coast, which make for some beautiful views and photos as the sun was dropping, and then we found a spot to sit down with a beer and enjoy the sunset with Tanah Lot temple's silhouette standing out against the colourful skies. It was a great way to finish the day.
We finished our stay in Ubud with a day enjoying a lazy morning by the pools at our resort, followed by a well needed massage and facial (clean up the pores!) at the Jaen Spa. We walked to their nearby spa and had to get a lift (our first ever ride on a motorbike!) down the road to their newer spa just on the outskirts of town. This was a heavenly treat (the massage not the bike ride!) and a great way to end our fabulous time in this special place.
We would have loved to have more time to explore more of Bali, as we felt quite at home and surprisingly settled in this beautiful setting, with Julia feeling the urge to return again and experience Bali for a longer period of time (Eat, Pray, Love style!). But we had to move onwards, and our next stop was the small Indonesian Gili islands...our next little bit of paradise was waiting.
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| Lovely Bali |
Having read much about the 'Aussie' holiday resorts of Seminyak and Kuta, who are drawn to the island for the beaches, nightlife and most importantly the surf, we decided to steer clear of these and go straight to the arty town of Ubud nestled among the rice terraces to experience the real essence of Bali and it's culture. We then planned to head over to the Gili Islands, just off the neighbouring island of Lombok to get some beach time.
 |
| Soon to be beach time |
So we proceeded to get a taxi from the airport (300 IDR), and headed into the depths of our first experience of Asia.
As soon as we headed in land, the luscious tropical green forests and stunning landscapes made us instantly fall in love with the island, and as we arrived into Ubud with the sun setting we were excited for what we would encounter.
 |
| Rice fields everywhere |
We stayed just south of the main area of Ubud in the Agung Villa Resort, as we wanted to be out of the hustle of the main streets and in the surroundings of what we imagined Bali to be - circled by rice fields.
 |
| The pool! |
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| Our room... or was it a house... |
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| Say no more... |
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| Three cheeky monkeys |
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| Boo! |
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| Abracadabra |
We then headed off to catch the sunset from a restaurant/cafe that had been recommended again, but this time the route was much more picturesque. We met local workers in the rice fields heading out as the temperature was dropping, and found a great little spot right on the edge overlooking the rice fields for a delicious mango smoothie and beer with the sun setting over the rice fields - it was beautiful.
 |
| A rather nice view over the rice fields |
We woke early to find the driver was unavailable, but Putu, the enthusiastic owner of the agency we had met the day before, was there in his own car waiting to take us out! So knowing the 'boss' was our tour guide we sat back and headed off to our list of stops for the day...
 |
| Our awesome guide Putu |
As we had a full day ahead of us we started early, which meant we got to these rice terraces ,just 15 minutes north of Ubud, before the crowds. The workers were just heading out for the day and with the orange glow of the early morning sun, it was great to explore up through the terraces, walking right along the ridges and getting up close with them.
 |
| Tellangang Rice Terraces early in the morning |
The Pura Tirta Empul Temple
This spiritual temple, is one of the most significant for the Balinese people, and Putu who attended this temple regularly came in with us. With a holy spring spouting water through numerous fountains into a pool, we joined the locals in their ritual. You move through the pool to each fountain and dunking our heads under its fresh, cool flowing water one by one (avoiding the three that are just for taking the water from to wash down the dead).
 |
| The Pura Tirta Empul Tempe |
 |
| Putu showing us how its done |
We drove right into the north of the island to get a quick view of Mount Batur and its spectacular crater lake. This was a nice stop, but quite a long way out the way so we had to keep moving on to make sure we could fit in all our stops!
 |
| Mount Batur |
Lumak Coffee and a Cup of Tea
Bali is also famous for its Lumak coffee. Coffee beans that are eaten and pooped out by a Lumak, and then dried and roasted to make a uniquely tasting coffee! We stopped at a great spot set in beautiful garden surroundings which offered free tea and coffee tastings (except the Lumak coffee which we paid for) and explained the process in making the coffee too. It had only been open a few months so it was quiet, but once this place gets it's name out I'm sure it'll be on the tour trail!
 |
| Lumak Coffee |
With a UNESCO status these rice terraces are the largest on Bali and my are they stunning! We had driven for a good 2 hours through a heavy thunder storm and as we got closer we were concerned that we wouldn't get THE view of this spectacular sight. The Gods seemed to be on our side as the weather passed on just as we parked up, and we had a good half an hour taking in this magnificent sight. If you go to Bali you have to visit this place, it is totally worth the journey.
 |
| Jilwatwh Rice Terraces |
It was the sunset that we had come to see at this coastal temple on a rocky outcrop in the sea. There are a few temples along the coast, which make for some beautiful views and photos as the sun was dropping, and then we found a spot to sit down with a beer and enjoy the sunset with Tanah Lot temple's silhouette standing out against the colourful skies. It was a great way to finish the day.
 |
| Sunset! |
We would have loved to have more time to explore more of Bali, as we felt quite at home and surprisingly settled in this beautiful setting, with Julia feeling the urge to return again and experience Bali for a longer period of time (Eat, Pray, Love style!). But we had to move onwards, and our next stop was the small Indonesian Gili islands...our next little bit of paradise was waiting.
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