Thursday 24 December 2015

Australia - 12 days in Sydney

As soon as you see the opera house and harbour bridge with the most spectacular harbour in the world you know you are in Australia. Having been here twice before, we knew we were in for a good time, but this time it was for Christmas and New Year.

We were greeted by the fantastic Kat and Andy at the airport who were going to be our hosts for the next 10 days. It was rather nice to go back to a home (even better with a pool and tennis court on the roof in Surry Hills) like we did when we stayed in Melbourne with Stu and Megan. Huge thanks for allowing us to stay as accommodation in Sydney around Xmas is difficult to find and seriously expensive!

Our lovely hosts!
After a good night sleep and super brunch (the Aussies love their brunches) on Christmas Eve we were ready to take in the sights over the next 12 days.

Circular Quay
This really is the centre off all things iconic in Sydney. With the stupendous Harbour Bridge and the magical Sydney Opera House, which isn't designed to look like sails on a boat, but actually sections of a sphere! It's amazing how two structures can be so instrumental in making one city so iconic. They really do 'make' Sydney what it is. 

We have arrived
We enjoyed them both from multiple vistas and angles whilst staying here, mainly on New Years Eve from Mrs Macquarie's Chair in the Botanical Gardens (see New Years Blog post), from the Manly ferry and from the Opera Bar itself with a glass of bubbly in hand (thanks Kat!)

The harbour
This has to be one of the most beautiful and spectacular harbours of the world! And it is thanks to Captain Arthur Phillips head of the first fleet who having found that Botany Bay wasn't quite the refuge that Captain Cook had led the Brits to believe, sought a more amenable location, sailing up the coast and anchoring his ships on 26 January 1788 (Australia Day) where Circular Quay sits today.

What better way to explore it, like Phillips had on that momentous day than by boat. Kat and Andy had kindly got us a Jet Boat ride around the harbour, which was a thrilling way to see all the bays and inlets, with a few deliberate sharp breaks and donuts to make sure we got completely soaked!

Ready, ready...soaked!
Watson's Bay
Right up at the mouth of the harbour lies Watson's Bay with its lighthouse marking the entrance and exit for the many boats that come to this spectacular harbour. 
We got to experience this at its finest with the start of the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race on Boxing Day. 
And they're off...
As one of the most prestigious yacht races in the world this was quite a sight to see! 120 boats all lined up ready including 5 huge super yachts, which on the signal made a dash to catch the wind and get the best line to avoid all the other boats fighting for the same route. These boats were fast! Within about 10 minutes the majority, who hadn't come into any early problems were off and away into the distance, with those that had catching up once their sails were up and billowing in the wind.

Coogee to Bondi
To work off our Christmas dinner and all the wine we had been enjoying we decided to walk the Coogee to Bondi path along the coast. Passing lots of little bays, this walk gives you a broader view of the Australian coastline outside the harbour. 

First glimpse of Bondi
Sandy beaches and rocky outcrops line this walk, surrounded by the crashing rollers which make this area so popular for surfing. And as your turn the corner onto Bondi, this gritty place hits you with its graffiti art and rows of surf shops. We enjoyed a bite to eat at the Iceberg bar overlooking the beach, and caught the bus back to Surry Hills.

Taronga Zoo
If you are looking for more of an activity for a day then Taronga is the place. We enjoyed was a jam packed day out here and is was really easy to reach by ferry or bus.

The seal show was fabulous! With 4 different types of seal telling the story of their daily lives through some great tricks and interactions with the crowd. It was no wonder there were queues to get in!

Cheeky chappy
We saw a whole host of animals, from the native Australian, including many of the things that might kill you; snakes, jellyfish and spiders!

As well as the cute and cuddly; Kangaroos, Koalas, Red Pandas and Penguins.

So cute
And the majestic; elephants, gorillas and giraffes, the latter of which have some prime real estate with the best view in the zoo over Sydney!

Giraffe's backyard 
We finished our day on this side of the harbour with a visit to Julia's cousin Mona's in South Mosman, right on the water. 

Mona in her beautiful home in Mosman
We enjoyed a very special Malaysian dinner on her balcony overlooking this inlet on the harbour, spotting the first pod of dolphins in the bay that Mona had seen in all her 47 years at this beautiful family home. Thank you Mona for a very special evening!

Manly Beach
Having stayed 2 years ago at Manly with another of Julia's cousins (Chris and his now wife Alice) on our way back to the UK, we had to go back for a nostalgic trip more than anything!

2 years on!
We spent two afternoons on this beautiful beach (far nicer than Bondi in our opinion) with some great company. The first of which was with some of the Guacamole Gang from Uluru, relaxing on the sand and watching the surfers in awe having tried and failed at this two years ago.

Guacamole gang reunited
The second was for coffee at one of the lovely cafés that line the beach; Jellyfish (an old favourite of Chris and Alice) with our good friend Julia, who was just starting out on a 4 month expedition.

Manly has a lot going for it, with its quaint row of shops, restaurants and the best ferry ride into the city for views of the harbour. And the beach of course!

Sydney's bars
Having met Enzo, a Cocktail Mixologist based in Sydney, on our trip to the Whitsundays, we had a list of the top cocktail bars to visit whilst in the city. So for two evenings we dolled ourselves up and headed out on the town.

Palmers & Co. is a 1920s themed bar, which had a great atmosphere and tasty cocktails from the era. We sipped on a Blind Tiger and 12 Mile Limit, deciding after to move on to another of the bars on the list, only to discover most places are closed on Sundays which when you are used to London, we couldn't believe!

12 mile limit 
Our second evening was more successful, starting at the Lobo Plantation, a cool underground dimly lit rum bar, followed by The Barbershop gin bar, hidden out the back of, yes you guessed it, a barbershop! With Julien from the Guacamole Gang with us we enjoyed great company and great drinks.

Barbershop
Other great bars Enzo recommended that we didn't manage to visit are: Baxter Inc. (a whisky bar which was sadly one in one out when we got there), Eau de Vie and Darlo Country Club (where he currently works!)

In a nutshell
It was great having a good long period of time in and around Sydney (see other blog posts for Hunter Valley and Blue Mountains), and even better spending a unique Christmas and very special New Years Eve here too. And it most certainly wouldn't have been the same without our fantastic hosts Kat and Andy - thank you! This is one part of our trip we definitely won't forget easily!

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