After travelling for almost a month in Rajasthan we took our penultimate train in India to Agra to see 'THE' sight in India; the Taj Mahal.
Agra allures the crowds because of the wondrous Taj but it is not the only attraction in and around this city, it's Fort, mosques and the nearby ancient city of Fatephur Sikri are all well worth giving yourself two full days to make the most of this magical area.
We decided to stay right by the West Gate entrance at Hotel Sidhartha, which was perfectly located to see the sights of Agra itself and its surrounding areas.
What we had come to India for...
Having arrived 5 hours late into Agra and on a Friday (when the Taj is closed) we decided to check in and make our way to the Idgah Bus Stand to take the local bus to Fatehpur Sikri, 40km outside of Agra.
Down with the locals
The bus journey itself was quite an experience, as with all the seats taken by locals we were directed to two cushions sitting on the metal box that was covering the engine to the left of the driver, so although we got the best seats for the view out the front, and our own version of air con (gaps in the front of the bus) we did however end up with very hot and numb bums!
Getting comfy for the ride!
An hour later than we expected (the bus should have taken 30mins) we arrived in the village of Fatephur. Following a quick bite of Pakora and a Samosa on the roadside we headed up the hill to the Jama Masjid mosque which lies beside the ancient palace complex.
Entrance gate to the Mosque
This mosque is entered through the spectacular 54m high Buland Darwaza (Victory Gate) and within its courtyard contains a variety of tombs and gravestones, and also an entrance to a tunnel underground which reportedly runs all the way to Agra Fort.
Marble tomb in the Mosque courtyard
Next door is the complex of palaces and pavilions, which was a good few hours visit.
We loved exploring the palace buildings set around garden courtyards. The most spectacular buildings included the Diwan-i-khas which had an amazing central column which flares out to form a plinth connected by four narrow stone bridges.
Diwan-i-khas column
And the Panch Mahal, a pavilion that has five storeys that decrease in size with just one small kiosk at the top where Emperor Akbar sat and watched over his complex.
Tiered columns create the Panch Mahal
After exploring this fascinating step back in time, we were quickly pulled back to the present when the last local bus didn't turn up! Having waited for over an hour we walked 1km back to the main road Agra Gate and made friends with some locals who were also trying to flag down a bus heading to Agra. The bus we managed to hail down was actually a comfortable air conditioned coach which ironically cost us less than the rickety bus we had arrived on!
We awoke early the next day to get into the queues for tickets to the sight we'd come all this way to see; the Taj Mahal. Although we were first in the foreigner ticket queue (at 6am) what we hadn't expected were the coach tours who had guides that queued for tickets so the groups could fill up the entrance queue, meaning by the time we made it into the entrance queue the chance of getting a crowd-free snap had past.
With it getting further into the winter season, the mist had dropped itself right over the Taj, providing us with an erie yet magical moment as we caught our first sight of this magnificent building.
The Taj was built by Shah Jahan as a memorial for his third wife who died giving birth to their fourteenth child in 1631. Completed in 1653, Shah Jahan's son then overthrew him and he spent the rest of his years imprisoned at Agra Fort overlooking his creation. He was buried on his death next to his wife in the central tomb of the Taj.
As you walk up through the ornamental gardens and get closer to the towering mausoleum it's easy to see why it is a designated a world heritage site and why Rudyard Kipling described it as "the embodiment of all things pure".
Looking back from the gardens
Standing on a raised platform, its masterstroke of design means that it's only backdrop is the sky and as it is as long as it is wide, the symmetry makes this majestic white marble structure particularly pleasing on the eye.
Sitting in the arches of the white marble
Then there is the detail! Carved with flowers, words of prayer and inlaid with semi-precious stones in beautiful patterns on both the outer walls, grand domes and inner cenotaph, up close it is just as beautiful.
Getting a closer look
We left the Taj as the mist lingered over its domes and headed on to see a few of the other sights in Agra. Starting with the Fort, which is definitely one of the finest of the Mughal forts in India.
One of the forts courtyards
Primarily built as a military fort, it was grand and strong with high walls over 20m in height and domineering gates, but it also became Shah Jahan's gilded prison where he watched over the Taj from his not so shabby white marbled octagonal tower; the Khas Mahal.
A prison fit for a Maharaja
Whilst exploring the corridors, gardens and courtyards of this magical complex we came across two local Indian tour groups, one group of ladies in a stunning multi-coloured array of sari's which looked beautiful as they weaved in and out of the doorways of this maze-like structure.
The Pink Ladies
The second was a group of young school children who were so smiley and keen to have their photo taken, sitting in a perfect line they were a picture so perfect we couldn't have set it up even so perfectly if we'd tried.
Lined up
We then moved on the Itimad-ud-Daulah, nicknamed the Baby Taj. Another tomb, this is much smaller in size, so doesn't have the grandeur of the Taj, but it was well worth a visit as it's appearance is arguably more detailed and delicate.
The Baby Taj
As our penultimate day in Agra we decided to take a trip back through the streets, taking in the local every day life of the roadsides.
On the streets of Agra
Heading through one last local market, the Kinari Bazaar, which was typically Indian when looking up to the sky...
Cable jungle
We had one last day in Agra and decided that having experienced the magical mist over the Taj we would do a 'take two' (now knowing all the tricks of the trade for getting in!) and head there one last time to just soak up the atmosphere, get those people-free money shots, see the mist rise and the sight that really had given us that 'wow' moment in India for one last time.
And it was totally worth it...
Crowd and mist free...ish!
We spread our luck this time and Chris queued for tickets whilst Julia was at the ready with the camera at the front of the entrance queue. Just as the doors were opening Chris passed Julia her ticket, and she headed straight in (Chris not far behind). The mist was less oppressive and the sun broke through to bring a subtle glow of colour as it rose to the white marble walls.
A pink hue
We sat back after taking 'the' photos and just took in the wonder of India. And it was then that we realised we had grown to love this crazy, dirty and magical country.
Crazy India!
Our final immersion into the true 'Indian' experience was our final journey back to Delhi, which was probably our most enjoyable train journey of all! With no bookable seats available on all the trains for the 2.5 hour journey we had to buy unreserved tickets for a whole INR90 each (90p) and just get on!
We didn't quite brave the unreserved class of carriage that we should have, but instead decided to 'play dumb' and get on the sleeper class carriage and be-friend some Indians to let us kindly sit down with them on their booked bunks.
Julia ended up sitting with a Christian Indian working for an NGO and a Professor of Geology, who taught her ironically at the end of the trip how to say My Name is (pronounced: Me-raa-naam Julia hay).
Making friends!
And Chris sitting with a group of guys that had just been trying out for the army, who were keen to practice their Indian English!
The boys!
Our great friends on the train also came to our rescue when the train conductor came down the carriage and tried fine us INR600 for getting in the wrong carriage, telling us not to pay him and hope he didn't return (which luckily worked!)
The Taj and our final journey (which was of course 3 hours late as well) really summed up India for us (great people and a fascinating culture) and we left the country feeling unexpectedly sad, yet filled with wonderful memories of moments we never would have experienced anywhere other than India.
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