Saturday 28 November 2015

Getting around India

Getting around India, whether its in a city or across country, is relatively simple. The train network is extensive and perhaps provides the best method for getting around. However, it does not go everywhere and can be time consuming, so look at buses, a private taxi and internal flights as well, depending on your budget and time available.
Trains

We opted for a India rail pass to make things simple, as we could book all our train tickets in the UK.  Having spoken to several other travellers in Delhi railway station, it is clear that you can waste a lot of time trying to buy train tickets, and they can get booked up well in advance so if you need specific trains or are travelling to India's many festivals, it is worth planning ahead if you want a reserved seat/bunk.  There are some tourist quota tickets available for some trains, but we did not have to look into getting these too much and when we did, the train didn't have a quota. 
Trains are big



When booking a seat you will need to find out which train you want to book Clear tip - www.cleartrip.com/trains  can help you see what trains leave when and complete a paper form (ask at the reservation desk for one).  Complete this and then pass to the agent behind the 'foreigner' counter - without this form they are unlikely to help you.


Train craziness in Delhi
In Delhi tourist booking office if you are picking up India rail pass tickets go to the desk on the left as you enter (you don't need a ticket number).  If you do not have a reservation get a ticket from the machine on the wall and get a booking form (one per train you are booking) from the man sitting near the door (he will be in plain clothes but just ask). If you know your train number, name and time just wait (a long time) for your number to come up (you will need your passport!). If not, you will need to go to the 'tourist information' desk on the right as you enter to get your train number and times. No need for a ticket, just get to the front of the queue somehow (Indians do not know how to queue so just go for it!). Once you have find a comfy seat and wait like everyone else until your number comes up.

Warning - Watch out for the touts in Delhi and major cities. As you'll hear from any website/guidebook, don't listen to them, go to the tourist office on the 1st floor, platform 1 in Delhi - it will be open and it is at the station.



Follow the signs
The joy of the railpass is that everything is already sorted, and if you change your plans, you don't waste money. Trusty seat61.com has all the info you will ever need and showed us how to do it. He also shows you how to book tickets in the UK without having to get a rail pass!
Trains are not to the western standard, but are still okay, as long as you go AC class (AC1, AC2 AC3 or AC Chair). Anything lower than this and you will have an 'experience', but after a few hours, it may be a little testing! Sleeper carriages are okay, but the ride isn't the smoothest, there are a lot more people and so you may not get all the sleep you planned - but you do have a reserved seat. Second class is for the very brave as there are no seat reservations and its a free for all. Security is good, but take normal precautions - top bunk wherever you can, lock your luggage to something secure and sleep with your valuables on you or in your pillow case. It is also a good idea to bring your own sleeping sheet and a pillow case.


AC2 top bunk
One thing many people worry about are the toilet facilities. I will be honest with you - they stink... literally! Majority of them are squat and with the swaying carriage are a bit of a challenge. However, when you got to go, you got to go, so, as with many things in India, just get on with it, do your business and get out of there! Don't forget your toilet paper and cleaning hand gel.
Train food is not good from what we have observed or been told about. If you do eat something, probably stick to the sealed water and sealed snacks, or better, bring your own (we took a Subway with us or got a restaurant to make up some cheese toasties).
Bus, flights and private taxi
Alternatives, are to take a bus, fly or take a private taxi, all of which seem to be fairly easy to organise. There are many agencies around, but ask around for the best one, as some will obviously be less honest than others. Roads in India, from what we have seen, are a little crazy (their driving test is to drive around the corner and stop... that's it!) so take that into consideration if driving or planning to take an overnight bus).
Private AC taxis/drivers can be a good way to get around, as you see the countryside in relative comfort and can stop wherever you want. However, this only becomes reasonable if there are a few of you or your budget can extend to it. We have not organised these oursleves so cannot comment too much. Good for day trips.
Buses seem to be extensive. There are different classes of comfort as expected and prices reflect this.  You can take overnight sleeper buses as well.
Flights look good with GoIndia (many other operators available). Again, if your budget can extend to it then great, but factor in the time waiting at airports, the fact that you are not really going to see the country, and the cost of getting to and from airports. Good idea to use something like Skyscanner to see flight times and prices.
Around town
Around towns, the best method is to walk or take an auto-rickshaw. Autos are relatively cheap, plow through the traffic with relative ease and are quite good fun. See if they will turn on their meter (we didn't have any luck) or alternatively agree a price before getting in. If they try to pick up extra people, try to make you pay for petrol or re-negotiate say a strong NO and gesture to get moving - they soon get the idea. Don't be ripped off (always haggle), but also be realistic. If you want to get somewhere, quick then just get on with it - your time is much more valuable than an extra 20R (20p).  Peddle rickshaws are also possible in some places, and are good fun, but best for short distances.  They are also cheaper that Autos.

Autos
When arriving at a new destination, always ask your accommodation to see if they can organise a pick up (most do it for free), or go to the police pre-paid booth to get an accurate price. Pay your money at the booth, get your slip and go to a driver. Never give your slip over until you have arrived at your destination. When they get the slip they get paid! And don't fall into the trap of giving extra just because they ask for it.  The price you paid at the government booth is set and that is it!  

If you do get swooped upon by a driver(s) when you exit the station, or there isn't a policy pre-paid booth, make sure you are not taken off to another hotel.  Be clear where you are staying and that is where you want to go - no-where else. The driver will likely want to take you to a hotel where he gets commission and will often say your accommodation is full, closed or burnt down - always stick to your guns.  A trick is to get a small map out and track where he is going and if they ask if you have been to India, say you have been many times you are staying/meeting with a friend and they are expecting you. 



Delhi Metro
The metro in Delhi is excellent, clean and the cheapest way to get around the city. If you are a woman travel in the ladies' carriage at the front of the train.

Women only
Drive yourself
We have met a few people who have turned up to a place, bought a bike and gone for it! Great if you have the nerve, but drives can be long, dusty and roads are not that great. Cycling is also an option, but go in the winter months and be realistic with your distances as roads are not the same as in Europe.. Amazing way to see the people and country from what we've heard though!

Hope these tips help with the method of travel you decide to use. India is a great place to travel and half the fun is travelling from one place to another.

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