Hpa-an (pronounced pa-an) is a famed for its karst scenery, rivers, rice fields and caves. It is a beautiful setting and I am sure, if the air was clearer, is would be spectacular. We only had 2 days here, which in our opinion is about right unless you want to climb Mt Zwegabin and stay at the monastery at the top. As it was topping 36 C we ruled the 2 hour climb out and focused on doing a trip to the famous caves.
The town itself is relatively small and easy to navigate. We didn't connect with it like other towns (such as Kalaw or Mawlamyine), but it was nice enough. There are fairly limited and expensive accommodation options. We stayed at Angels Land Hotel, which at $40 was our most expensive hotel to date. It seemed we were the only guests in the hotel which was a little strange, but the room was large, had okay AC (much needed), a fridge, TV, hot shower and a good breakfast. From what we hear a lot of the hotels are a bit tired, and this was the same with Angels Land.
The main attraction for visiting this area is for the landscape, exploring it by either climbing some of the mountains or checking out the caves. As we had ruled out the climbing option we set out to find the best cave trip.
Soe Brothers Guesthouse seemed to be the first choice for many, with most hotels directing people to them for advice and tours, but their trip did not include the bat cave (where millions of bats leave to feed each evening) which was something we really wanted to include. After exploring the town we found at the end of our street a little agency called Silver Shining Star Travel and Tours doing tauk tauk tours for the same amount as the Soe Brothers AND they could include the bat caves as a bonus.
We turned up at the agreed 9am start time the next day and found we were the only ones on the tour. So for 15,000 we had a full day tailored trip and our own tauk tauk. The journey is a little bit bone rattling at times, but well worth it!
Here is a quick trip summary in the order we visited:
Kawt-Ka-Thaung Cave
This was a smallish cave with some interesting Buddha images on the roof and statues.
We got friendly with some butterflies here which was good fun for us and the locals. There is a swimming hole from a natural spring and cave nearby which looked very inviting, but as it was our first stop we didn't have time to take a dip.
Sadan Cave (1,000 + Boat)
The most spectacular cave in the area as inside it is the size of a football pitch. We climbed up and down into a cavern full of Buddha images.
It is then possible to walk through the cave all the way to the other side (bring a torch as even though the route is lit, it isn't the best lighting) to a duck pond with water lillies and other caves surrounded by karst mountains - truly beautifully stunning! The central part of the cave is full of bats, which squealed like crazy. There is also a large stalagmite that Chris climbed into. After which we discovered was covered in spider like cave insects which creeped us both out...
At the far end we emerged into the sunlight where it is possible to hire a boatman (1,500 per person, minimum 5,000 for a boat) to take you across the pond, through a submerged cave and along an irrigation channel back to the front of the cave! We shared the journey with another couple we'd spotted at a few of the caves that day.
Standing up for the final part of the boat ride through the rice fields was worth the balancing act to get some beautifully green photo shots back over the karst scenery.
Lonepanyi Garden and Mt Zwe-ka-Bin
This garden is situated at the base of Mt Zwekabin, and the view upwards gave a great view of the spectacular mountain behind. The garden was a large area filled with over 1,000 Buddhist statues all lined up perfectly - quite a sight! We didn't stop for long, but it was great for a few photos.
Kyat-Ka-Lat
One of those postcard shots for the local area, this beautifully located Paya towers up out of the centre of a round lake on top of a rock outcrop. We were able to walk half way up the rock, the top section looked like it needed to be navigated by some balanced bamboo ladders, but it was only for Buddhists so secretly relieved we headed back.
Ya Thay Pyan Cave
Another large cave with probably the best and most spectacular cave features inside. There were a large number of... you've guessed it... Buddha images and a stupa in the cave around the entrance, but the best bit is that you can walk all the way through to a viewpoint at the back of the cave with spectacular views of the surrounding area.
As you near the view point this is where you'll walk up through a beautiful waterfall of stalactites that runs right down the wall of the cave.
Kawt Gone Cave
With time not on our side to reach the bat cave in time we decided to give his one a miss, especially as it would have cost 3,000 each to get in. It is one of the more well known of the area for its historical art which includes some very old Buddha images painted on the walls and ceiling of this small cave. It would have been nice to go but sadly time was simply against us.
Bat Cave
A must visit if going to Hpa-an. We found it very easy to find - at the end of a road under the main bridge over the river outside of Hpa-an you come to a Buddhist monastery. Walk through and follow the blue signs to the bat cave which is located along the river a few 100ms from where your tauk tauk drops you off or you leave your bikes.
You can't quite see the cave itself as it is hidden behind a rock, but if you hang around the pagodas at the end of the trail you can hear them. Simply walk past the family (they ask for a donation on exit but up to you if you give anything) who look after the Paya (be polite) and find your spot!
We arrived at around 5.15pm having heard that the bats come out anytime after 5.30pm. We then had the dilemma of where to watch them from! You can either climb up and see the snaking trail against the river or stay low and get close (but don't stand underneath them as you will get pooed on!). We chose to go high up (up the steps and ladders) for the view down below, which was beautiful when they decided to appear - just after 6pm as dusk hit.
There was little warning of when they were going to appear, apart from the birds of prey hovering over head, as the bats just go for it in one go - a continuous stream of thousands and thousands of small bats, twisting in a line across the surface of the water. It last for about 5-10 minutes, so as you can imagine it was quite a spectacle and one if you have a chance to see - totally worth it!
Moving on south to Mawlamyine
We had heard great things about the boat trip from Hpa-an to Mawlamyine in the south and decided that this would be a much more interesting way to travel than on yet another bus!
We heard that the government boat no longer runs, but there are two boats which do the journey on a daily basis. The slightly more expensive option was to pay $10 on the Thanlwin Princess which included a pick up from your hotel. Alternatively for 8,000 kyats, there was a small wooden boat leaving from the end of the road that Angels Land Hotel is located on. The tour company that organised our day tour booked our spot on the boat and we paid the boatman directly.
This cheaper boat took between 7-9 people. We'd heard that the seats were likely to be plastic chairs but when we turned up we found them to be old car seats which made for a very comfortable and relaxing journey - just get there early to make sure you grab one of the seats rather than the floor!
The journey was great, passing close by the villages along the river banks with children running down to the banks waving and shouting hello. The boatman slowed down so we could take pictures, wave back and say hello. You will also come across other river life such as the gravel dredgers, lots of fishermen and maybe a bit of wildlife. It was a lovely way to spend a couple of hours.
Overall
We liked Hpa-An and we're sure if we were there just after rainy season and it was a bit cooler, the views and surrounding countryside would be even more spectacular. As a town there isn't too much going for it, but it is walk-able and there are a few okayish eateries. If you are in the area it is well worth the visit and if you have time we heard good things about going up Mt Zwe-ka-bin where you can stay in the monastery at the top.
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| The caves of Hpa-an |
The town itself is relatively small and easy to navigate. We didn't connect with it like other towns (such as Kalaw or Mawlamyine), but it was nice enough. There are fairly limited and expensive accommodation options. We stayed at Angels Land Hotel, which at $40 was our most expensive hotel to date. It seemed we were the only guests in the hotel which was a little strange, but the room was large, had okay AC (much needed), a fridge, TV, hot shower and a good breakfast. From what we hear a lot of the hotels are a bit tired, and this was the same with Angels Land.
The main attraction for visiting this area is for the landscape, exploring it by either climbing some of the mountains or checking out the caves. As we had ruled out the climbing option we set out to find the best cave trip.
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| Buddha in a cave |
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| Tauk tauking around |
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| Our ride! |
Kawt-Ka-Thaung Cave
This was a smallish cave with some interesting Buddha images on the roof and statues.
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| Where's Buddha? |
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| Julia's new friends |
The most spectacular cave in the area as inside it is the size of a football pitch. We climbed up and down into a cavern full of Buddha images.
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| Sadan Cave |
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| A wall of stalagmite |
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| Awaiting our departure |
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| What a view! |
This garden is situated at the base of Mt Zwekabin, and the view upwards gave a great view of the spectacular mountain behind. The garden was a large area filled with over 1,000 Buddhist statues all lined up perfectly - quite a sight! We didn't stop for long, but it was great for a few photos.
 |
| The garden of Buddha |
One of those postcard shots for the local area, this beautifully located Paya towers up out of the centre of a round lake on top of a rock outcrop. We were able to walk half way up the rock, the top section looked like it needed to be navigated by some balanced bamboo ladders, but it was only for Buddhists so secretly relieved we headed back.
 |
| Another stupa balancing on a rock! |
Another large cave with probably the best and most spectacular cave features inside. There were a large number of... you've guessed it... Buddha images and a stupa in the cave around the entrance, but the best bit is that you can walk all the way through to a viewpoint at the back of the cave with spectacular views of the surrounding area.
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| The view at the end of the cave |
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| A waterfall of stalactites |
With time not on our side to reach the bat cave in time we decided to give his one a miss, especially as it would have cost 3,000 each to get in. It is one of the more well known of the area for its historical art which includes some very old Buddha images painted on the walls and ceiling of this small cave. It would have been nice to go but sadly time was simply against us.
Bat Cave
A must visit if going to Hpa-an. We found it very easy to find - at the end of a road under the main bridge over the river outside of Hpa-an you come to a Buddhist monastery. Walk through and follow the blue signs to the bat cave which is located along the river a few 100ms from where your tauk tauk drops you off or you leave your bikes.
You can't quite see the cave itself as it is hidden behind a rock, but if you hang around the pagodas at the end of the trail you can hear them. Simply walk past the family (they ask for a donation on exit but up to you if you give anything) who look after the Paya (be polite) and find your spot!
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| Bat's snaking their way over the river |
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| And they just kept on coming! |
Moving on south to Mawlamyine
We had heard great things about the boat trip from Hpa-an to Mawlamyine in the south and decided that this would be a much more interesting way to travel than on yet another bus!
 |
| Our boat pimped with car seats |
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| Getting comfy |
The journey was great, passing close by the villages along the river banks with children running down to the banks waving and shouting hello. The boatman slowed down so we could take pictures, wave back and say hello. You will also come across other river life such as the gravel dredgers, lots of fishermen and maybe a bit of wildlife. It was a lovely way to spend a couple of hours.
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| Living on the river banks |
We liked Hpa-An and we're sure if we were there just after rainy season and it was a bit cooler, the views and surrounding countryside would be even more spectacular. As a town there isn't too much going for it, but it is walk-able and there are a few okayish eateries. If you are in the area it is well worth the visit and if you have time we heard good things about going up Mt Zwe-ka-bin where you can stay in the monastery at the top.
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